Prospero's Kitchen

Definition of 'Cook'

Michael Ruhlman had a really good definition of what makes a 'cook' in his recent blog. (See link to the right side of this entry.)

"Really good cooking is a craft, and those recipes that best describe that craft, whether simple or advanced, move all cooks forward. Those recipes that help you avoid craft, to get around it, set people who want to become better cooks, back.

"Do you want fast and simple?  Grill a steak.  Want a great sauce that doesn’t involve making and reducing veal stock?  Mince a shallot and mix it with some soft butter and lemon juice. But don’t get mad at a recipe for a classical Bordelaise sauce.

"I understand that some people, most people, want to eat good unprocessed food but don’t have the desire or time to learn to cook or prepare elaborate recipes from America’s most talented chefs.  Those are the people who most need to learn the few basic techniques upon which all cooking is based.  Those who cook for pleasure won’t progress as cooks until they do that as well.  It wouldn't take long. There are just a handful of them."

          Michael Ruhlman

Six Plates Stopover

Earlier tonight my friend and I stopped by Six Plates. Most people were sitting outside in the gorgeous spring evening, but we stayed inside and absorbed the gentle atmosphere. My friend had the chilled gazpacho with the shrimp-avocado-Elodie Farms chevre panini. I had the tuna stack, a minutely constructed small cup of sashimi grade tuna in a avocado, mango, and vanilla vinaigrette.

Most memorable was the salted caramel gelato: vanilla salt and dark chocolate caramel gelato. And the perfect wine for chocolate, said Matthew Beason, Sant Evasio Brachetto D'Aqui '06. Barely sweet light red and with a slight sparkle, chilled as if it were a champagne, it was perfect with the chocolate, and I would have had more and will when I have my next chocolate fix.

The Frenzy: Mother's Day and Graduation

All the chefs in the area are preparing for the Big Weekend that has already started with families coming to town and getting together--where else--at an excellent restaurant. Last night, in fact, I had dinner at Pop's. The sauteed ocean scallops with greens and potatoes were wonderful. Balanced taste and texture. And tomorrow I'm going to Six Plates with a friend or two.

Next week though I'm interviewing Walter Royal, who was gracious and welcoming, and Sara Foster, of the indispensable Foster's. Look for the posts to follow.

My Laaaast Truffle

Sitting on my front porch, I took out my last truffle from Dolly Mama and slowly savored it, looking for the notes she's hidden in each truffle. I detected cherry. Or it may have been strawberry. And a hint of coffee. Beautiful on a Monday morning.

The hazelnut truffle

I can keep this up till my box of truffles is empty. Tonight was hazelnut truffle. The shell thin, crisp, and dark, enrobing the ganache. The silkiness touched my tongue and offered a deep, dark chocolate taste with just an undertone of hazelnut. Nothing heavy. All heavenly.
         The Kitchen

Hello, Dolly!

In a day or two you'll see my post on Dolly Mama. She can detect the differences in the tastes of chocolates from different regions. But more importantly for you and me, she makes exquisite truffles from these chocolates, local cream, and the fruits she often finds at the Durham Farmer's Market.

Watch this space for the conversation I had this afternoon with her about her work.

Things You Learn by Listening

Rue Cler Bakery is "fantastic."
The starter for the pizza dough there is fourteen years old.
Chef Ted Domville's hero is Charlie Trotter.

Read about these things as well as much more in the post, "Ted Domville: A Chef with a Plan," below.

What do you know about Shane Ingram?

Look for a post on this chef, whose restaurant is Four Square. It's coming tomorrow.

The Genealogy of Durham-Chapel Hill Chefs

The area's explosive growth of great chefs and restaurants stems from a man most of us don't know a thing about--Bill Neal. It was his enthusiasm for fresh, locally grown, French-style Southern foods that propelled the region to delight in great foods. And following Bill Neal there's an abundance of great chefs who feed on the creativity of one another. Bill Smith, Ben Barker, Scott Howell, Shane Ingram, Matt Kelly, Drew Brown, Andy Magowan, Andrea Reusing, Chris Stinnett, John Vandergrift, Matt Beason, Amy Tornquist. These are just a few of the well-known names. And when you see their connections with one another, you'll be amazed.

(Some of these chefs have been interviewed and written about here. See the Categories list for their names and for links to the articles.)

Interviewed Chris Stinnett and John Vandergrift

I wish you all could have been there when I interviewed Chris Stinnett and John Vandergrift. You would have seen how the atmosphere of have-a-good-time comes directly from Chris and John and their co-energy. They are co-owners of Pop's Trattoria, Rue Cler Bistro, and Rue Cler Bakery, in case some one of you didn't know. I've transcribed the interview and will write it up in a day or two. Along with photos. Stay tuned.